Southern Jam Cake

This is another of those times when a Bake from Scratch magazine tempted me. Sometimes I am disappointed in what comes out of it, but this is one of those recipes that is a real "keeper"! I have made it multiple times, and even taught it to my cooking classes. It is not a gorgeous or impressive cake. What it is, is comforting, humble, amazingly scented with spices, crusted with sugar, and...well, it just satisfying to eat with a big glass of cold milk or a mug of coffee.

The method is a bit more involved than the usual single layer cake, but it not not difficult and so worth it! The first thing to do is line your cake pan. People rarely do this nowadays, but I have several different cakes that call for it. The reason is to make sure that a delicate (or in this case, filled) cake can be turned out without sticking or tearing. You don't want your lovely cake breaking and spilling out the glorious jam!

Heat your oven to 350 degrees.

Take your 8 or 9 inch cake pan and trace the bottom of the pan onto a sheet of parchment paper. NOT wax paper. Waxed paper is not to go into heat; the wax melts off and can catch on fire. Yipes! Don't trace the top of the pan because the diameter is larger and you want the paper to fit in the base. Now take the extra parchment and cut a long strip approximately as tall as the sides of the pan. Cut this into smaller pieces about 3-4 inches long.

Then you are going to grease your pan with a napkin dabbed in shortening or lard. Get all over the surfaces, because this is going to be the "glue" to hold on the paper. Place the round paper in the base and press down. Then apply the small strips to the sides as shown below. You cut them small because long ones don't want to stay attached. Add a bit more shortening to the back of the paper if it doesn't stay. Don't worry if all the cracks and edges aren't covered. It will be fine!

Now for the delicious batter! It is fragrant with one of my favorite spices, nutmeg, and honestly, it wouldn't be the same cake without it. I consolidate a few of their steps so as to dirty less dishes ;).

Into a large bowl put the dry ingredients:
2 cups flour
1 and 1/4 cups sugar 
1 and 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp kosher salt ( or a touch less of regular)
1 tsp nutmeg
Whisk to combine.

Melt  1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp butter (or 145 grams).

In a two cup measuring container, measure out-
3/4 cup whole milk
2 large eggs
1/2 tsp vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
Whisk this together till combined. Add the wet ingredients and melted butter to the dry in the bowl and stir until just combined. It will be a stiff batter and you want that.

Here is where we depart from the norm. You want to take a bit less than half of the batter and put it in the bottom of the pan, spreading evenly to the edges. Now you are going to spoon the rest of the batter into a piping bag with a large tip, or into a gallon zipclose bag and snip the corner. Honestly, that will work fine. Don't get discouraged by the next steps- I CANNOT PIPE. I am a complete inept when it comes to piping frosting, but this is not that. We are not making it beautiful. Take a breath and pipe a fat line around the outside of the cake pan. Imagine this as your protective wall. Protecting what? Why, all that delicious jam you are going to put inside.

See how messy mine is? Doesn't matter, it's a wall for my jam. The recipe calls for 3/4 cup of blueberry jam. But it just so happened that a farmer down the road gifted me with flats of cherries this summer. (Who has too many cherries??!! Bless his heart :) Instead of buying, or as the recipe calls for, making the blueberry, I used the cherry compote I had canned. 

Now, here you do anything you want. I think strawberry jam would be divine. Blackberry? Yes, please. I recently  made apple butter and I am thinking that it would be perfect with the cinnamon sugar, but would it be thick enough? Please use a thick jam, conserve, or compote the first time you make this. I just want it to work perfectly for you so you can taste how lovely that jammy layer is all baked in. Then, the next time, go crazy and use whatever calls to you. Let me know if you try something that makes you swoon!

Oh, my heavens! We're filled with chopped cherry compote. The recipe says 3/4 cup, but my little jar held a full cup and so I just used it all. I've never been a real rule follower...

Now you are going to take all that leftover batter in the tube and pipe you a snake of batter around and around, covering over your jam like a sweet little secret. Don't worry if you have gaps or put too much in one place. Now you are going to gently spread it out in an even layer. Gently, because you don't want to stir into the jam, and don't want to pull on your important "walls". Look at all those vanilla and nutmeg flecks! (I always have to lick the bowl, raw eggs or not.) Now, into the 350 oven!

Bake for at least 50 (or up to 60) minutes, laying a loose sheet of foil over the top after about 25 minutes to keep the top from browning too much. My oven cooks faster on one side, most ovens do, so I rotate the pan halfway through baking time. I always err on the side of a shorter baking time, because I hate dry cake. But don't scrimp on this one. The center may test set but the batter will be doughy when you take it out too soon. So speaks the voice of experience...

Let cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Then turn gently out onto a cooling rack and remove the paper.  Ta-da! It works wonders to keep your little cake safe and sound and in one piece. Use a second rack and flip the cake back over so its domed top is right side up. And now, Dear Reader, is the immensely satisfying and delicious part. Do this while it is still hot...

Melt 1/4 cup of butter. Set aside.

Combine 1/2 cup white sugar and 1 tsp cinnamon in a small bowl.

I place my cooling rack on a sheet of waxed paper (cheaper than parchment and perfect for clean-ups). Brush the top and sides with ALL the melted butter. Work quickly because then you are going to spoon the cinnamon-sugar over the top and use your cupped hand to pat it onto the sides in a thick layer. Yes, honey, use it all. Trust me, would I lead you astray on something as important as dessert? You are giving this little cutie a shaggy, crusty coating that will be almost like eating a jelly-filled cinnamon-sugar donut.

You need to let this cool a bit. It is still wonderful when completely cool, especially for breakfast, but it is sublime when the jam is still warm. It is a juggling act though. You don't want to cut too soon and risk the filling seeping out. But who can wait till it is cool?! I'll leave the timing up to you. Use a modicum of patience and then plunge in.

Look at that jammy layer and all the spice flecks in the batter. And the sugar crust is the icing on the cake, so to speak. I think that you and those you love will enjoy this humble little bit of joy. I sincerely hope so! Warm nutmeg hugs and jammy kisses from me to you, Dear Reader!

 ************

 “Are you going to give a speech?' she asked gaily.

He gave a choked laugh. 'Of course not,' he said. 'Not for ages.'

'My cousin Davey gave one on his very first day!' ...

'In the Lords, I remember. It was about how he didn't like strawberry jam.'

'Be nice, Charles! It was a speech about fruit importation, which I admit devolved into something of a tirade.' She couldn't help but laugh. 'Still, you could talk about something more important.'

'Than jam? Impossible. We mustn't set the bar too high, Jane.” 

~Charles Finch, The Fleet Street Murders